It was everything I expected....and more. Yes, "and more." Let me preface this entry by admitting I am going to be horribly one-sided, prejudiced, and probably a little staunch myself. At this point after the anger I felt last night, I really could care less. I work in a country where minimum wage is $240/month, with students who have to save for years to even think about visiting my country, where gringos trot in and out disrespectfully, and on an island where at the " richest"academic institution in the country I have to FIGHT to even get markers and erasers to use on the whiteboards for my English classes. So, yes, I may be either extremely close-minded or extremely open-minded. Either way, despite being "outsider," I know my community more intimately than say any USA Congressman or Vice Chancellor trotting in here to cut a piece of ribbon to inaugurate this magical structure of equality.
So, let's see the scene, which I alone find hilarious. My colleague and I walk in. It's 40-60 something gringos---not surprising considering the nature of the event. I am in a $28 cotton Old Navy sundress and flip flops which in a run-on with a local earlier, she looked at me and commented, "Wow! Everyone is getting dressed so elegantly for this event!" (Yes, island elegance is something in itself). The gringos are seated, and there are about four latinos in site.
Twenty minutes after the program is scheduled to begin finally and naturally the latinos begin to trickle in. (I mean, hi, punctuality is not strongly emphasized in latino culture). As I observed the crowd, I told my colleague that at any moment I was waiting for a woman who looked like she'd trotted out of the country club to turn and in a loud, slow voice say to one of my Ecuadorian colleagues, "I...LOVE...YOUR....PEOPLE. SUCH...HARD...WORKERS! I...LOVE....THE....CINCO....DE....MAYO....ALSO!" (For those of you who don't know, Cinco de Mayo is a USA construct that has NOTHING to do with South America especially.) As the seats are already filled, all of the latinos stand in the back while the gringos sit in front in their J-Crew sailor tops whispering back and forth while expelling "bahaha" laughter at the witty introductory remark which was the gringo director of the project saying, "I SHOULD have learned more Spanish..."
You're right, you should have learned a more Spanish.....which brings me two my next point. The translator. Yes, there was a translator on-site because, naturally, with two languages----it was necessary. Only, truth be told, the only speakers who weren't bilingual (sans one of six Ecuadorians who spoke) were naturally the USA folk. When a witty comment was made in English, the majority of the room laughed, whereas when a witty comment in Spanish was made the volume of laughter decreased noticeably. But, yes, I admit I AM being a bit harsh here on my USA counterparts because it is NOT easy to learn Spanish---I've been practicing for years and sometimes still feel like I can't even blurt out a phrase correctly. Yet, nonetheless it is a reflection on my CULTURE, because here the students begin learning a second language from day one in grade school and it is required to get most adequately paying jobs here. So, yes, I get it....it's too late to learn Spanish and obviously you have been busy with this massive undertaking. However, at the least, my god, at least TRY, TRY, TRY to learn ONE phrase or, heck, I don't know---how to even CORRECTLY pronounce the name of the Island you are on and the city you are currently in. (Shout out to you Mr. Congressman and everyone else who mispronounced the island name!) Gerf.
The speeches commence. There are literally thirteen speakers. All of the speeches are given in English or Spanish, and then translated. My. God. Do these people know where they are? This isn't how we roll in my 'hood. If you're talking too long, your students or the people let you know...especially, if you are standing there repeating THE EXACT SAME THING IN 13 DIFFERENT WAYS. Nonetheless, I nestle in, breathing deeply, convincing myself that perhaps I will be pleasantly surprised by what these individuals have to say. I'm surprised alright, but in that, "Oh. My. God. Keep. Your. Mouth. Shut. Vocasek" kind of way. The USA folk, of course, mention how this island is in danger! The flora and fauna are being destroyed! Why yes, dear friends, nature IS being destroyed by things like, I dunno---a wood paneled eyesore which not only pulled the "eminent domain" card for some of the locals/some how got the go ahead to build on land whose ownership was still being disputed/on an island which doesn't allow foreign enterprise. I am SURE this structure will do wonders for the flora and fauna of the National Park which is literally a one minute walk away as well as the for the local economy and people. (*Breathe, Vocasek.*)
They continue talking about how wonderful it is that the local Ph.D.'s can do their research here. Really? REALLY? What local Ph.D.'s are we talking about because this institute is a two year college and anyone do a doctoral program, much less a masters or bachelors for that matter, has to go to the mainland. The only Ph.D.'s floating around this island are....bum-bum-bum the foreign imports. I.e. You guys. Fancy that.
Everyone continues to talk about how this is NOT just a facility for the USA institution and the USFQ (Universidad San Fransciso de Quito) personnel, but this is a facility for the community, the citizens of San Cristobal. Really? Really. Hmph. Because, of the 50-some people here, there are about ten actual citizens of San Cristobal which is including the mayor, governor, and three university employees. In fact, as I learned shortly thereafter, the local students were sitting down below waiting for class to start not realizing, as no one had bothered to tell them, that class was canceled for this Staunch Glory Party. No one I know and spoke with from the community had any idea this was going on, much less were invited. In fact, I actually had to ask one of the gringos what day and time the inauguration was because no one on this campus seemed to know. (Then again, this might be the fact we don't care because clearly this isn't actually our facility.)
I sat there, continuing to wonder things like where were the construction workers (who were imported, so no, not even jobs were given to the local people) who had literally been working from 6am until 6pm (11pm during the last few weeks) seven days a week to construct this elegant (*barf*) structure. Oh, I knew where they were...they had to stay down below in their quarters until the reception was over. Not that they would have necessarily WANTED to sit through the speeches or given a crap, but I felt like if anyone deserved a thank you, praise, a nice meal and a jazz band (yeah, a jazz band....very much the local flavor *rolls eyes*), it was probably more so the people that had been exploited for well over a year who were sleeping in bunk beds in the cement walls of the basement versus those who trotted down on first class air and were staying at the most expensive hotel on the island. I mean, truth be told, when I've asked local students what they think about the building, it's a very nonchalant response of, "I mean, it's nice. It's not for us, but it's nice, I guess" trying to be cordial. Realistically, they are quite indifferent to it at all knowing that obviously, it's for the foreigners, or upset because they understand the true meaning of the controversy behind it.
Another woman got up there to speak about how wonderful it was that there was a new summer study abroad program which would bring fifty more students to USFQ this summer and then even more with the addition of new programs once the facility was totally complete. Oh, yippee!!! Did anyone our groundskeeper/cook/cleaner/everything man whose home was bulldozed and who already literally works seven days a week from 5am until 10pm at night? I sure hope the memo got put on his desk and new personnel were hired. Oh, good. Not necessary to hire more people? Of course not, his family can help out and work here too---for free. Whew. *Wipes brow.* My question is----is any of the money that will be made off these study abroad programs because who are we kidding---study abroad is a source of revenue (I would know after four years in the business) going towards SCHOLARSHIPS for MY students to study abroad in YOUR country as we collaborate and celebrate this merger of cultures and forging of international friendship. No? Oh. Okay. Just my Ecuadorian students/friends/colleagues housing and feeding and cleaning up after your students? Oh goodie!
I would say the major point of disgust was when the USA Congressman got up there (yes, we were so lucky), and after butchering the name Puerto Baquerizo Moreno of course (it is actually pronounced P-where-toe Backer-eezo More-eh-no, not a mumbled bastardized version of god-knows-what) mentioned that now that his district was sister cities with San Cristobal and had a firm academic partnership with the islands, it would be wonderful if it would now open doors to more economic partnerships. There it was....he said it---and more than once. Of course! Why NOT now that we have our enterprising foot in the door with this academic institution would we NOT expect that we're going to bring trade in as well. I mean, my people here can trade so many things with all the factories and crafts and um, well, yeah.... Oh wait, no---we don't manufacture ANYTHING here. We import everything---we are an island with limited resources. Our commerce is TOURISM and fishing to a small extent which, when it is fruitful, is enough to feed the islands. So, what, Dear Congressman, exactly are WE on this end exactly going to export? Precisely. Nothing. Pack your Panama Jack hat, your McDonalds, your KCF (We already have GFC for your information sir!---not kidding!!!), your Walmart, your Starbucks, and please get off this island; your Tommy Bahama Cologne is disturbing the iguanas.
As the program continued, my team garnered a few laughs and victory points. When the first cellphone rang, I immediately looked to the crowd and saw all of the USA'ians tense up and give side glances of, "Oh my! WHO forgot to turn their cell phone off for such a momentous, glorious occasion!?!?!" When the second one went off, there was a little tension and a few less side glances. By the eight or ninth cell phone ringing (all locals, of course, because this is how we roll here on the isla, yo!) and after half were answered in the middle of the speech (Go, Galapagueños!), the gringos were clearly annoyed but less "side glance-ish." I found it comical that the comment the USA'ian made about it in his speech was translated to Spanish without an accusatory or condescending tone as compared to the context that he'd spurted it out with. As for the locals, they didn't seem to notice or care the about the phones ringing because turns out----this may be YOUR building, but this is THEIR stomping ground ("our stomping ground" actually since I live here and at this event I was one of the university personnel who was pushed around, ignored, and not actually formally invited to the event.
I must admit I did not actually make it through to the end of the speeches and actual ribbon cutting. I, despite what I know of polite society and proper professional behavior, got up about two speeches from the end and walked out. Rude? Perhaps. Warranted? Absolutely. The truth of the matter was that I could no longer stay and listen to this banter from my North American counterparts be blown up my ass and the asses of my friends/colleagues/community about how this facility would save the island and would alleviate the social and demographic problems here. (I mean, there were several times where references were made to this being "The only facility/project like this in the entire world!" Oh, please.) Yes, gringos, you HAVE "saved this place" by constructing on a National Park, offering no financial assistance or access to the local students while undoubtedly increasing revenue from your study abroad programs, kicking local people out of their homes, unknowingly and knowingly exploiting Ecuadorian workers, tromping in here with a badge of heroism, creating a fantastic workspace for YOUR staff/faculty/students, and informally propositioning free trade agreements. Yes, you HAVE left quite a mark.
As I look back at the only upside to the ceremony, I keep hearing the words for the local Ecuadorian project boldly saying in his speech, "I don't want this to be a facility where the locals wash the windows for the foreigners sitting inside doing their research." Yes, Diego, I agree. I agree completely, totally, and utterly. Yet, as I sat there, looking at the pale skinned creatures which surrounded me in their Talbots and Nordstrom trousers thinking about the construction workers literally stowed below in the basement and my colleagues who were upstairs already preparing breakfast for these folks for the next day, I really couldn't help but acknowledge the reality of the situation. Although no squeezies and Windex were being used anywhere that I could see, the fact of the matter was that windows were already being washed, and had been washed, by my compañeros, but not with windex, rather their dignity, pride, and homeland. My immigration documents say North American but in my heart I felt Ecuadorian. And, deep inside, I felt not only great sadness---but betrayal.
UPDATE: After having the opportunity to sit down for a minute to talk with the director of the Center for Galapagos Research for the USA university, I was pleased to learn that they are in the process of putting together scholarships for Ecuadorian students to study abroad for a semester in the USA, first student projected to go abroad this coming Spring. I was also delighted when he agreed with me when I politely pointed out the stark differences in the opportunities the study abroad students have here versus the extracurricular opportunities for the international students. He said that he had taken note of that and was hoping the level the playing field a bit. I am vastly pleased by this, and have given him my contact information and the offer to do whatever I can on this end regarding programming as well as immigration advising since, you know, I might know a thing or two about those F-1 regulations having worked with them for 2.5 years. So, yeah. Although, obviously I do not agree with the way the situation has come about, I do now feel a glimmer of hope that more positive things may come of this than what the current outcome has projected. So, to infinity and beyond! Or at least, the mainland and beyond anyway....
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